Large Inventory of Custom Pool Tables
Consumer Guide To Buying A Pool Table
Decision Making
Understanding Price Ranges
Terminology
The Manufacturer
Preferred Components - What makes a difference
The Most Popular Pool Games
Components of a Cue Stick
Checklist
Room Dimension Chart
Decision Making
Prior to shopping for your pool table, several key points should be taken into consideration. In doing so, you will be able to make a comfortable buying decision that is right for you.
- Who will be playing on the table?
- Is the table going to be used for entertainment or are you interested in developing your playing skills?
- What size room or area will the table be located in?
- What colors/styles are in the room that the table will be located in (i.e. wall colors, flooring, drapes and other furniture)?
- Would a contemporary design or antique design look best in the room?
- What price range fits your budget:
1. Least Expensive $ 495 to $ 1,195
2. Economy Level $ 1,200 to $ 1,995
3. Mid Range $ 2,000 to $ 3,495
4. Custom Level $ 3,500 and up
Price Ranges
Least Expensive: The price range reflects the quality and workmanship at this level; the least expensive level is considered a toy. This table is not made for precision play. The playing surface is made of artificial materials commonly referred to as "perma slate" or "honey comb". The toy table is designed for you to take home, assemble, adjust and play. The materials utilized in manufacturing this level of table are inferior, therefore, the guarantee, if available, is very limited and the life of the table is short-lived (two to three years).
Economy Level: This level table will feature a ¾" slate playing surface; however, in many cases, manufacturers will use a "one piece slate" that is virtually impossible to level to a dead flat playing surface. Another common way for a manufacturer to cut costs is to use short slate. Short slate does not extend completely under the top rail. Short slate is picture framed in wood, holes are drilled in the wood and the rails are fastened to the wood, not the slate. This will result in poor rail alignment, rail vibration and ultimately poor table play. The cabinet material and top rails are typically made of particleboard covered in low-grade laminate or vinyl. They appear beautiful in the beginning, but Be Aware, particleboard will decay or crumble over time. Low-grade laminate or vinyl surfaces can scratch or tear easily. Support bracing components are commonly made of assorted scrap materials. The cushions and hardware are typically of the lower grade. You can expect fair table play at this level. The normal warranty is a one-year limited warranty. The average life expectancy of an economy level table is five to seven years. Economy level tables are commonly priced by themselves. Make sure the price you are quoted includes delivery, installation, cloth and playing equipment necessary to play "Be Aware".
Mid Range Level: This level of table has been the most popular. Many different styles are available, to compliment any décor. This range of tables will feature a "full-size" three-piece genuine 1" slate playing surface. The slate will have a full support pad. The interior cabinet will be supported by both cross and center beam supports. The top rail will be made of cross laminated hardwoods, the cushion rubber will have a K-66 blended gum rubber profile. (The Billiard Congress of America has approved this cushion for tournament play for over 35 years.) Genuine color blended pockets add to the design at this level. The frame cabinet, blind aprons and legs will be constructed of density board covered in oak veneer or kiln dried hardwood lumber. The legs will have a large 4" x 4" foot-plant to ensure transfer support strength to the slate playing surface. The mid range level offers excellent playing characteristics, attractive designs, and should be considered a lifetime investment. If the manufacturer has not cut corners on his product, this range table will feature an "Unconditional Lifetime Guarantee".
Custom Level: When purchasing this level of table, you should expect only the highest grades of materials, designs and quality workmanship. This range table will feature exotic veneers, or exotic hardwoods. This level table should have all the construction features of the mid range table with higher-grade materials used in all facets of the manufacturing process. Unique features and intricate designs are standard at this level. Although they add to the cost, it truly sets them apart from the average pool table. When shopping for this level of table, ask a lot of questions, especially "why does this table cost more than the mid-range?" Although it should be obvious, make the salesperson explain the differences. This range table should be considered an "heirloom" that can be passed down from generation to generation. It will feature an "Unconditional Lifetime Guarantee".
Terminology
Top Rail: The top part of the table; the cushions and pockets are attached to the top rails and the rails are fastened to the playing surface.
Blind Rail or Blind Apron: Attached to the side of the top rail. The blind apron finishes off the top of the table and it covers the edge of the slate, cloth and slate support pad providing a finished look.
Cushion, Cushion Rubber: The pliable rubber cushion bumper that is attached to the top rail. The cushion is what the ball makes contact with when playing pool.
K-66: A triangular profile cushion rubber (B.C.A. approved for over 35 years).
Facing: A hard rubber lining attached to the top rail at the pocket cut. This rubber lining finishes the top rail covering exposed wood that could damage the pool balls.
Sights: Markers inlayed into the top rail. The markers dissect the playing surface assigning numeric values to each sight allowing players to plan their shot commonly known as "the diamond system".
Playing Surface: The flat area between the top rails and the cushions where the game is played.
Synthetic Playing Surface: Man made artificial materials used to create a playing surface commonly called "perma slate" or "honey comb".
Genuine Slate: A deep mined metamorphic rock, millions of years old, extremely stable and durable. Resists temperature and humidity changes, precision honed and surfaced. Can be leveled to a dead flat surface. The only surface approved by the B.C.A. for tournament play.
Cloth: A blended wool and nylon fabric used to cover the rail/cushions and playing surface. An assortment of colors are now available to fit any décor.
Frame Liner and Slate Support Pad: The slate rests on the top of the table cabinet assists in fusing the frame together and supports the playing surface. The frame liner is critical when anchoring the slate surface to the frame cabinet.
Frame Cabinet, Frame: The large wood cabinet between the playing surface and the legs.
Cross Bracing: Support beams that run across the width of the interior frame cabinet.
Center Bracing: Support beam(s) that run down the center of the interior frame cabinet.
Leg Gusset, Leg Mount: The interior frame support system for the table leg.
KD or Knock Down Design: A frame cabinet design that can be dis-assembled and re-assembled.
Unibody, Assembled or Fused Design: A frame cabinet design that cannot be dis-assembled.
TerminologyPositioned under the frame cabinet. Supports the entire playing area and frame cabinetry.
Hardware/Fasteners: Nuts, bolts, screws and staples used to construct the components of the pool table.
Pocket: Attached to the top rails. Assists in unitizing the top rails for play. Stores or holds the ball(s) when a shot is made. Finish: Type of coating applied to the outside components to give color, seal and final finished appearance.
Seal Coat: A coating used to seal internal frame cabinet components.
Particle Board, Pressed Wood: A combination of soft wood flakes, chips and sawdust bonded together with a synthetic adhesive to create a sheet of material.
Plywood, Veneer Core: layered wood material cross-laminated from thin sheets of plies of veneer to create a sheet of material.
Hard Board, Density Board, Fiber Board: Hardwood chips processed into individual fibers blended with resins and pressed together under intense heat and pressure creating a sheet of material; harder, heavier and denser sheet with smooth surfaces and consistent thickness.
Hardwood: A slow growing material that is very stable and strong. Typically has beautiful grain patterns and is much more expensive than softwoods.
Soft Wood: A fast growing material that is very soft, it typically has a large grain pattern because of its rapid growth.
Kiln Dried: This term is used in the lumber industry when referring to lumber that has been placed into a large kiln and dried to a certain moisture content. Kiln dried wood is more stable than air-dried wood, reducing the possibility of warping or cracking.
Solid Hardwood: Denotes the part is made of solid hardwood lumber.
Solid Wood: The table will be constructed of a combination of solid hardwood and softwood lumber.
All Wood: A variety of materials derived from wood will be used.
B.C.A. AKA Billiard Congress of America: Governing body of billiards.
Notes:
1) Be aware of sales gimmicks that may mislead you. Ask direct questions:
"Is this solid cherry wood or a cherry finish?"
It is common for consumers to think they are getting an expensive hardwood, but in reality, they are buying a lesser grade material finished to match a particular species of hardwood.
2) As in most everything we buy, there are different levels of hardwoods. The highest quality hardwoods available are known as "FAS" grade. Material is graded at the lumber mills and sorted for clarity and color; "FAS" is the "premier" grade.
The Manufacturer
It is very important for you to know where your table is being manufactured and by whom. There are pool table manufacturers popping up in every metropolitan region of the country, as well as every corner of the world. Many manufacturing companies turn out to be "sideline" businesses to either earn extra money or create 12 months of production for their employees, whose expertise is generally building non-related items such as spas. If you are serious about purchasing a high quality pool table, one that is well engineered and will give you excellent table play, then it is in your best interest to go to the "experts"; A specialized manufacturer that makes a living by exclusively building pool tables. It is important to realize that customer service; parts availability and guarantees are only as good as the manufacturer standing behind it. Research the credibility and longevity of the manufacturer you are considering, and where the table is being manufactured.
Preferred Components
Rails: A two-piece cross-laminated hardwood oversized rail design will give you a component that will resist warping, cupping or cracking. The 5 ½" oversize top rail adds to the beauty of the table while also making it easier to play on, allowing the player more room to hand bridge shots close to the rail.
Another important part of the top rail is the hardware used to fasten the rail to the slate-playing surface. The preferred fastening method is a rectangular floating nut plate embedded inside the rail. These nut plates, along with a 3/8" hex bolt and dome toothed washer, provide the ultimate downward torque and tensile strength, eliminating vibration.
Cushions: A K-66 profile gum rubber cushion will provide years of accurate, consistent and lively table play. A quality cushion will float in water, while a rubber cushion with high amounts of fillers will sink; fillers are another way for a manufacturer to cut cost.
Cloth: A high quality cloth will be a blended 75% wool and 25% nylon 22 oz. fabric. This will give you excellent playability and lasting wear.
Blind Rail: The blind rail gives a finished look to the top portion of the pool table. The blind rail receives a lot of abuse during table play. Players lean in to make a shot and constantly bump the blind rail. The blind rails should be securely fastened to the side of the top rail. Some blind rails are attached with unsightly hardware, which takes away from the beauty of the table. Inspect how the blind rail is attached and what type of material is used. Hardwood is the preferred material because of its beauty and strength.
Slate: A slate-playing surface has been recognized and approved by the BCA as the only playing surface suitable for tournament play. Genuine Slate is a deep mined metamorphic rock, millions of years old, extremely stable and durable. It can resist temperature and humidity changes, and is precisely honed and surfaced. Once the slate has been leveled to your table, it will be a dead flat playing surface. The preferred . . . it will give you an excellent playing area for your table. The preferred slate playing surface is a three-piece design slab cut and diamond surfaced. A three-piece slate allows more areas for adjustment when leveling and is easier to handle. You will hear many sales pitches about the origin of the slate and the thickness of the slate. What is important to remember is that slate is a natural substance. It has no exclusive origin. If it is properly mined and processed, it will give you an excellent playing area for your table.
Slate thickness does affect the manufacturing cost of a table, but not the playability of your table if it is properly supported and installed. It is recommended that a minimum of ¾" thick slate be used. Any thinner may be susceptible to cracking or breakage.
If both slate thickness are equally and properly supported, you will not be able to tell the difference between ¾" and 1".
Slate Support: For maintaining an accurate playing area, the slate must be fully supported. Many manufacturers will glue wood liners to the slate, which can cause inconsistency between the slate and the wood liner. In addition, wood liners are made of several pieces of wood; the more seams, the greater chance of movement. Movement will cause the slate top to pop or shift out of level. The most desirable slate support is a one-piece design with no seams made from manufactured materials that resist climate change and have excellent fastener retention values.
Frame Cabinet: When examining the frame cabinet of the table, it is important to look at how the table fits together. Do the parts interlock to fuse the components as "one"? The more rigid the frame cabinet, the less chance the slate will pop or shift out of level.
If the frame support system is designed and engineering properly, the frame wall thickness is not critical. The only reason for a thicker frame wall is to insure that the table panel will not spread or sag under stress.
A properly designed frame construction should have interlocking cross bracing and center bracing anchored directly to the frame cabinet wall. Many manufacturers will support their interior bracing with scrap wood blocks. Although more costly to manufacture, a combination of steel-timber connectors and European insert hardware anchored directly into the frame and bracing will give superior strength. This method unitizes the frame cabinet. Steel will maintain its original shape and strength characteristics indefinitely. The combination of wood and steel are easily verified by looking at construction methods for decking, floor joices, or roof trusses; all three have much more than 500 lbs. of slate resting on them.
Legs: Examine the method used to mount the legs to the frame cabinet. Quality pool tables will utilize a large heavy gauge 3/8" lag bolt or machine bolt with a heavy gauge fender washer. This combination allows greater torque strength. Once again, rigidity is important between the frame and the legs to eliminate movement. The larger the foot plant, the more balanced the table becomes and will evenly distribute the weight from the playing surface to the floor. Several different style legs are available including: pedestals, hollow box, hollow tapered, solid turned and solid carved legs. Depending on the materials, size and amount of routing or carving on the leg, the price range will fluctuate.
Finish: When examining the finish on the pool table, it is important to look at and feel the final product. Quality finishes do not happen by accident. The finish should be consistent in color and smooth to the touch.
Quality finishes require multiple steps to achieve. The final finish coat should be a catalyzed materials this will insure you a hard, mar-resistant, durable finish. Most quality manufacturers will utilize a name brand product. This is important for you to know in case future materials are needed for touch up or if you ever want furniture to be finished to match.
The Retailer: Another important part of your purchasing decision is whom you buy the pool table from. They should be an experienced and reliable billiard retailer. Is their primary business game room furniture or something else? Do they do their own installations or contract to an independent installer? Are they an authorized dealer for the brand you have selected? Take time to browse through their store and get a feel for who they are and what they do.
When making an investment as expensive as a pool table, it should be a comfortable, fun decision that you will enjoy for many years to come.
Understanding The Most Popular Pool Games
Eight Ball
Eight Ball is a call shot game played with a cue and fifteen object balls, numbered 1 through 15. One player must hit the group of balls numbered 1 through 7 (solid colors) into the pockets and the other player has 9 through 15 (stripes).
The player who pockets his group of balls first and then legally pocketing the 8 ball wins the game. The choice of stripes or solids is not determined on the break, even if balls are pockets from one or both groups. The choice of group is decided only when a player legally pockets a called object after the break.
Nine Ball
Nine Ball is played with nine object balls and a cue ball. On each attempt the first ball the cue ball hits must always be the lowest numbered ball on the table, but the balls do not have to be pocketed in order. If a player pockets any ball on a legal shot, he remains at the table for another attempt until he misses, fouls, or pockets the nine ball.
After a miss, the next player must shoot from the positions left by the previous player, only after a foul the next player may begin with the cue ball anywhere on the table. The players do not have to call their shots. The match ends when one of the players has won the required number of games.
The balls must be racked in a diamond shape, with the one ball placed at the top of the diamond and on the foot spot. The nine ball is placed in the center of the rack. All other balls can be placed in random order.
Parts Of The Cue Stick
Tip
The smaller end of the cue, opposite the butt, that makes contact with the ball, usually made from treated leather.
Ferrule
The cap attached to the striking end of the cue for reinforcement and to prevent the shaft from splitting.
Shaft
The thinner part of a cue, on which the cue tip is attached, that slides through the player's fingers while striking the ball. On a two-piece cue, the shaft extends from the cue tip to the joint.
Joint
On two-piece cues, the screw and thread device, approximately midway in the cue, that permits it to be broken down into two separate sections.
Butt of Cue
The larger end of a cue, opposite the tip, held when striking the ball. On a two-piece cue, the butt extends up to the joint.
Checklist
1. Are the top rails made of hardwood?
2. Roll a ball on the playing surface. Is it quiet?
3.Are the blind rails securely fastened?
4.Is the playing area genuine three-piece slate, minimum ¾" thick?
5.How is the slate supported?
6.Is there any particle board used in the table?
7.Does the interior construction interlock with steel supports?
8. Lean up against the table, bump the table. Does it shake or rock?
9. Is the table quality finished inside and out?
10. Who is the manufacturer?
11. Does the manufacturer only make game room furniture?
12. Does the table have an Unconditional Lifetime Warranty?
Buyer's Guide
Valley Pool Table
8001 Canoga Avenue, Suite C
Canoga Park, CA 91304
Phone: 818-888-4850
E-mail: alexqbal@aol.com
Monday – Friday: 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Saturday: 12:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.
Closed Sunday
